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Origami pleat black wool 1950s short coat jacket Hong Kong XS

$125.00
SKU:
C215
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Description

An early 1950s short coat or jacket, this exquisitely rendered beauty was made in Hong Kong by a highly skilled tailor. The mid-weight, twill weave wool fabric is similar to that used for men’s suiting or dress uniforms. Most likely custom-made for the original owner, this shorter-length, lightweight coat has rounded, narrow shoulders, a stand-up, funnel-neck collar, cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves, and a flared shape from bust to hem. It is not a true swing jacket, but it definitely is wider at the hem. Taking a close look at the complicated seaming under the arms (close-up photo), you can see how its unique, origami-like shape is achieved. A large, inverted pleat at each side, under the arms, is created by the wide, flat panels extending from shoulder to hem at the front and back, so that the dolman sleeves sit inside this cavity between the front and back of the jacket. See my side view photo: this is hard to describe, but such a neat effect! The jacket has a single square, faceted black glass button at the collar as its only fastening. Small slit pockets are hidden behind the pleats at the front waist. The coat or jacket is fully lined in black rayon taffeta, with pointed trim edging an inner breast pocket. Narrow Hong Kong bound seams are visible on the inside of the jacket—a lovely detail! This true vintage, ladies’ 1950s short black wool coat or jacket is in excellent condition, freshly dry-cleaned and ready to wear. The jacket fits pretty well on a size 6 petite (me) over lightweight clothing, so it will be best for approximately a modern size XS or size 2 to 4, up to 6 petite, I estimate.

Size: XS, best for petite.

  • Bust: 38 inches flat to fit up to 36 or smaller. Approx. 32C or 34B, maximum.
  • Width at hem or high hip: 45 inches total (22.5, laid flat and doubled).
  • Length: 24 inches form back of neck to hem.
  • Underarm to hem: 14 inches.
  • Sleeve length: 18.5 inches.
  • Shoulder to shoulder: approx. 13.5 inches (no seams).
  • Label: Cheung Hing, Kowloon Hong Kong